HOME GARDEN HUCKLEBERRIES

Most people believe the huckleberry is a relative of blueberries and actually, they are not. Believe it or not, the huckleberry is a member of the family of potatoes, pepper and tomatoes and even tastes a little like sour tomatoe. The berries are small and round, approximately 5-10 mm in diameter and look like blueberries. The main difference between a blueberries have numerous tiny seeds, whereas huckleberries have 10 larger seeds.


So, if trekking through the wilderness is not your favorite activity to enjoy the fine culinary delights of the huckleberry; as an alternative, how about growing your own huckleberries. Hopefully, the below instructions will assist in attaining a good variety of home grown huckleberries.






HOMEGROWN HUCKLEBERRIES

Growing garden huckleberries is like growing pepper plants. Seeds should be sowed in March or April in a tray with good quality seed compost. To maintain a relative constant temperature, cover with a plastic sheet.

Huckleberries although known in some social circles as a oor man's blueberries are famous for their wildness. They have a very limited commercial purpose. A blueberry can be picked and eaten raw; however, this is not the case with a huckleberry. They certainly can pucker your lips with their sour taste when eaten in the raw. However, they can be added to recipes calling for black currants and definitely do some tasty magic with your pies, jams and jellies, and even make an excellent wine.

Treat the huckleberry seedlings just like pepper or tomato seedlings by keeping them well watered On a weekly basics application of a liquid fertilizer would be beneficial. When you are sure there is no more frost threat transport the plants outside, planting in a full sun location in the vegetable garden.

Garden huckleberries are a low maintenance plants, just add mulch which will keep the weeds away and maintain huckleberries in good shape.

If you remember earlier (see above) I mentioned that the huckleberry was a relative of the pepper, potato and tomato family which makes it prone to the pests that attack this group of vegetables. The best approach to avoid these pests, caterpillars and potato beetles, is by not planting your huckleberry plants near the other plants of the same family.

Generally, garden huckleberries bear fruit within ninety days after being planted outdoors.

Watering of the huckleberry is basically dependent on the weather. However, reduce the watering when the fruites are getting colored up, if the weather is not very hot. This aids in increasing the taste. Huckleberries can be harvested anytime before the first frost. The plants would be filled with little berries around that time. Harvest begins when the berry is no long shiny and so purple that they look almost black.

Remember, the berries grow in clusters and do not fall off easily. Cut the branches and take out the berries from them. Pack or can them and freeze for use throughout the year. One can enjoy syrups, pies, jams, ice cream sauce and, last but not least, wine.

IN A HURRY FOR A BONSAI THEN TRY THIS

There are many candidates in the plant world that would an excellent miniature version of itself in a pot. That is what is known as a bonsai. The most perfect example for creating a very beautiful bonsai is the deciduous Japanese Maple. Using a method called air layering, makes it very easy to make a branch sprout roots that will support that will support it after separation. One begins this adventure with a selection of a nicely shaped branch that will be grown as a bonsai in a shorter term than the traditional method. Now for the secret, here are the steps:

First, but not last you must do the homework. Many kinds of trees, plants and shrubs can be made into a bonsai. A bonsai is a miniature version of a tree planted in a pot.

Japanese maples are ideal deciduous trees for creating beautiful bonsai. Using a method called air layering, it is very easy to make a branch sprout roots that will support it after separation from the tree. By selecting a nicely shaped branch, you can start a bonsai tree that will bring years of enjoyment.

The Japanese Red Maple is an excellent choice for your first successful bonsai project. We are going to use a process called 'air layering' which is accomplished as follows:

1. Select a branch approximately the diameter of your little finger that possesses a pleasing shape and structure.

2. You will need the following items for your bonsai project:

Sharp knife
Sphagnum moss that has been soaked in water at least 15 minutes
A small sheet of heavy plastic
String
Rooting hormone, available at any garden center

3. . After you have selected the branch for your bonsai make a circular cut through the bark and into the hardwood underneath above the area where you want the roots to appear.

4. Make a duplicate cut about two branch diameters below the first cut.

5. After you have made the circular cuts, make a straight cut connecting the first two circular cuts.

6. Peel back the bark between the two circular cuts making sure that none of the cambium layer (green) is left.

7. Dust the top cut with rooting hormone. Wrap the area with the wet sphagnum moss, and then wrap it with plastic and tie in place.

8. Keep the moss wet. After several weeks, you should see roots through the plastic.

9. Separate the tree. When the roots start to thicken and turn brown, separate your new tree by cutting it off below the new roots.

10. Place small pebbles for drainage in the bottom of a pot. Partially fill the container with top soil. Unwrap the plastic and without disturbing the roots, plant your new tree, adding additional soil as needed.

11. Insert a stake. This will keep the tree from moving and damaging its delicate roots.

12. Lean back and enjoy the fruits of your labor, your bonsai tree!

FALL TREE PLANTING IS IDEAL

When we think of planting we naturally think of spring time because it is associated with new growth. However, fall offers cool temperatures and sufficient rainfall making it a good time to plant as well as spring. Fall offers warmer soil and less damp than one would find in the spring, and you have the added bonus of more time to get the job done.

Fall-planted stock does require extra attention. Plants may not have enough time for establishing a good root system before winter sets in. Remember cold winter winds and sunshine cause plants to lose water from their branches and, if the plant is to survive to the roots must replace the lose of water. Broad-leaved evergreens in particular are more susceptible to winter dehydration because their leaves have more surface from which to lose water than narrow-leaved evergreens and bare trees.
When selecting trees for planting make sure to select balled-and-burlapped or container-grown plants. Remember, bare-root plants are only to be planted in late winter or early spring while the plants are in their dormant period.

It is not advisable to plant large trees in the fall. Large trees are risky to transplant in any season, but particularly so when foliage is present. Large trees are for spring and it is advisable to get a professional to do the moving. The have the expertise and equipment for a safe move and transplant. Consult your local nursery or go online for extensive help.

Not all plants are good for transplanting in the fall. Magnolia, dogwood, tulip tree, sweet gum, red maple, birch, hawthorn, poplars, cherries, plum and many of the oaks are among in the family of plants best saved for spring planting.

A note to remember; plant trees and shrubs early enough in the fall for the plant to develop a good root system. The soil temperatures should be well above 55 F at six inch depth at planting time. Every location is different, but normally this soil temperature condition exists until early to late October. Naturally, weather conditions vary from year to year and with microclimates around your home landscape.

Your fall planted plants should be thoroughly watered when needed, approximately 1 inch of water per week. Watering should be done until the ground is frozen, even after deciduous plants have lost their leaves. To prevent frost cracks, sunscald, and animal damage wrap the trunks of thin-barked young trees. However, be sure to remove the wrap in March.

Ground covers and shallow-rooted shrubs may be heaved out of the ground by alternate freezing and thawing of the soil that often occurs in winter. A 2-4 inch layer of mulch can help prevent wide soil temperature fluctuations. Apply materials such as compost, shredded bark or straw in late November or early December, after the plants are fully dormant and the soil is cold.

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WEEPING CHERRY TREES

Weeping Cherry Trees,A lovley favorite

For a dramatic landscape effects add a ‘Weeping Cherry Tree’ or two. A native of Japan, weeping cherry trees possess long and drooping branches much like a weeping willow. Its vertical growth is moderate; however, there is rapid growth of the weeping stems.

Basically we there are two types of weeping cherry trees, the Higan (Prunus-subhirtella ‘Pendula’) and Snow Fountains (Prunus ‘Snow Fountains’). The weeping Cherry Tree has become the latest hot landscape item with their graceful weeping branches full of classic snow white blooms. It definitely is an attention grabber in the largest of landscapes with its large, thick flowers covering the entire tree. It serves smaller yards just as well.

The Weeping Higan cherry tree grows to approximately 20-30 ft. with a 15-25 ft. spread. In the spring it produces gorgeous pink to white flowers in abundance when planted in full sun and a well drained soil. The Higan cherry tree can be grown in zones 4-8.

The weeping cherry ‘Snow Fountains’ attains a height of approximately 8-15 ft with a 6-8 spread. It is best suited for full sun and well-drained soil. ‘Snow Fountains’ are a slow growing ornamental which has cascading branches right to the ground.

If you thought about adding a weeping cherry tree or two to your landscape for beauty you should understand that these trees require a bit more maintenance.
A weeping cherry tree does better in warm climates. Preferred planting zones are 4-8. One could have a weeping cherry tree in a colder climate; however, it has to be in a container and brought indoors during the colder climate.
When planting a weeping cherry tree the general rules for planting apply such as the hole size is to be slightly larger than the container, try not to disturb the roots, well drained soil, etc.

Technically, this tree is grafted from another tree. A cherry tree bud is grafted onto a compatible tree known as root stock. When the bud reaches a specific size it is removed from the root stock and ready for market. This procedure has a small drawback whereby the weeping cherry tree will grow straight branches from the root stock. These branches are easy to see since they grow straight upward versus the willow branches which grow down in a hanging position. These vertical branches must be trimmed down to the root stock; otherwise, if left too long, will cause ugly scaring of the tree trunk.

When planning a landscape which incorporates a weeping cherry tree, one must always take into account the 20-40 ft. circumference that this lovely tree will need. To help maintain the moisture required by this tree it is recommended that a layer of mulch equal to its circumference be added to the ground.

Although the maintenance needs may be a bit higher than normal, the overall result in the spring will be breathtaking with that weeping form of beautiful white blooms. What a show as these graceful weeping branches sway in a gentle spring breeze.

DANDELION, NOT JUST A WEED

DANDELION

I was truly amazed at the reputation that the Dandelion possesses. I have always thought of it as an invasive weed that ruins my otherwise perfect lawn. Was I ever of the beaten track on that one.

Dandelions are one of the world’s most nutritious foods. The leaves contain twice as much calcium as kale or spinach. As little as 3.5 oz of raw dandelion leaves give you over a 1/5^th of the daily recommended allowance. Additionally the leaves contain vitamin A & C, phosphorous, potassium and magnesium, all contributing to a healthy heart.

Before I continue I would like to mention there are several weeds out that resemble the dandelion and to ensure that you have selected the right one, dandelion leaves are perfectly smooth and have no hairs and each flower is attached only to one stalk. Those plants with multiple flowers from a single stem are NOT A DANDELION.

Occasionally, I have heard through the grapevine that one can make dandelion wine and that it wasn’t half bad. Digging deeper into the benefits and culinary aspects of dandelions, I found several recipes that sound inviting to the palate.

DANDELION PESTO

2-4 crushed gloves of garlic

½ cup cold pressed olive oil

2-3 cups of freshly picked young dandelion leaves

¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Dash of sea salt

Squirt of lemon juice

¼ cup ground nuts (walnuts, pine nuts)

Place oil, garlic and salt along with half of the leaves. Blend well and then add the remaining leaves. When blended it should be a smooth consistency, yet a bit runny. Pour into a bowl; add Parmesan cheese, nuts, and lemon juice. Mix and you have a wonderful dip on bread, salmon and even try a couple of tablespoons on scrambled eggs. It’s good and healthy.

I know, enough of the culinary delights, when are we going to learn how to make dandelion wine like our parents or grandparents? Here’s the recipe:

DANDELION FLOWER WINE

3 qts dandelion flowers

1 lb of white raisin chopped

1 gal of water

3 lbs of granulated sugar

2 lemons

1 orange

Yeast and nutrient

Pick the flowers just before starting so they are fresh. Put the flowers in a large bowl and set aside. Set aside 1 pint of water and bring the rest of the water to a boil. Pour the boiled water over the dandelion flowers and cover tightly with cloth or saran wrap. Leave for 2 days, stirring twice daily. DO NOT EXCEED THIS TIME. Pour the flowers and water into a large pot, bringing it to a low boil. Add the sugar and peels of the orange and lemon, making sure no white is present. Boil for one hour and pour into a crock or plastic pail. Add the juice and pulp of the lemons and orange. Allow to cool until it reaches 70 -75 degrees Fahrenheit. Add yeast and yeast nutrient, cover, and place in a warm spot for 3 days. Pour and strain into a second fermentation bottle or jug. Add raisins and plug with a fermentation trap. Leave until the fermentation ceases, then rack and add the reserve pint of water and whatever else to bring it to the top. Refit the airlock and set aside until clear. Rack and bottle. This wine must age in the bottle 6 months before tasting, but will improve dramatically with aging up to a year or more.

Now who ever would have thought that a common weed like this had so much potential. So, the next time you consider removing them from your landscape harvest them instead for a culinary treat or a pleasant wine with your favorite meal